Water heaters · tank & tankless
No hot water? Most tanks we see can be repaired the same day.
Repair, replacement and tankless conversions for gas and electric systems. We carry the common sizes on the truck, so you are usually back to hot showers within a few hours.
Diagnose it
What the symptom usually means
No hot water at all
Gas: pilot, thermocouple or gas valve. Electric: a failed upper element or a tripped high-limit reset. All four are repairs, not replacements.
Water pooling at the base
If it comes from the tank body rather than a fitting, the inner liner has gone and the tank must be replaced. Shut off the supply and call.
Hot water runs out too fast
Sediment stealing capacity, a broken dip tube, or a tank that is simply undersized for how the household has changed.
Rumbling or popping noises
Sediment on the burner plate boiling water underneath it. A flush usually fixes it and buys years of tank life.
Rusty or smelly hot water
A spent sacrificial anode rod. Replacing the rod is cheap; leaving it means replacing the whole tank years early.
Pressure relief valve dripping
Either a failing valve or genuine over-pressure in the system. Never plug it — it is the tank’s only safety device.
Tank vs tankless
Which one is actually right for your house
Tankless is not automatically better. It is better for specific households, and we would rather tell you that than sell you a $6,000 unit you did not need.
- Stay with a tank if hot water use is modest, venting options are limited, or up-front cost matters most.
- Go tankless if you run out of hot water regularly, want the floor space back, or plan to stay 10+ years.
- Tankless needs a bigger gas line in most GTA homes — we quote that up front instead of discovering it mid-install.
- Venting matters. Condensing units need stainless or PVC venting to an exterior wall; we check the route before quoting.
- Owned vs rented. If your current tank is a rental we do the buyout arithmetic and handle the return paperwork.
- Rebates. We flag any active efficiency rebate you qualify for and help with the forms.
Still on a rental contract?
Plenty of GTA homeowners pay $40–$60 a month forever on a tank that cost $1,400. We will run the buyout maths with you and show the break-even date before you commit to anything.
Pricing
Water heater pricing
Supply, install, haul-away and permit where required.
| Job | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Diagnostic visit (credited to repair) | $89 |
| Thermocouple / element replacement | $180 – $340 |
| Gas valve or thermostat replacement | $290 – $560 |
| Tank flush + anode rod service | $220 – $380 |
| 40–50 gal gas tank, supplied and installed | $1,450 – $2,300 |
| Electric tank, supplied and installed | $1,250 – $1,900 |
| Tankless conversion including venting | $3,900 – $6,200 |
| Gas line upsize for tankless | $650 – $1,800 |
Final price is confirmed on site before work starts and does not change afterwards.
FAQ
Common questions
How long should a water heater last?
A conventional tank on GTA water lasts 8–12 years. Past 12 we will usually recommend replacement over a major repair. Tankless units run 18–20 years with annual descaling.
Can you install a unit I bought myself?
Yes, at labour rate — but the manufacturer warranty then sits with you and ours covers workmanship only. For most people the supplied-and-installed price works out better.
Do I need a permit?
A like-for-like tank swap generally does not. Changing fuel type, relocating the unit, altering venting or upsizing the gas line does — we pull it and meet the inspector.
How fast can you replace a dead tank?
Usually the same day. Call before noon on a weekday and there is a good chance you have hot water again by evening.
Cold shower this morning?
Call and describe what the tank is doing. Half the time we can tell you on the phone whether it is a $200 repair or a replacement.